I'm lifting this liberally from the magnificent article from Houston Press writer Robb Walsh's outstanding article.
Basically, there are three styles of CFS in existence. Walsh's article gives the following definitions while also seeking those restaurants in tejas that served the best examples of each. That's dedication that I can definitely appreciate, even if it is from a texan.
Southern style
Features a "the crunchy crust. It should look just like the coating on a piece of Southern fried chicken."
My clear favorite style of CFS.
German style
"These are dipped in bread crumbs or cracker meal so the breading lies flat on the meat, giving it a texture like a German schnitzel."
My least favorite style, too.
Cowboy style
Grease and flour over a hot skillet in what Walsh quotes as "cowboys on trail drives would fry pieces of meat from a slaughtered steer in grease-filled skillets over an open fire."
Pure pan-fried steak, this is typically what I'd have growing up (or close to it). Not bad but definitely my 2nd choice.
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Hungry Tiger Too
Yep, the CFS at HTT gets it's own darn plate. I didn't measure it but, if I had to eyeball it, I'd say it was a foot-long. Now, I'm as impressed by size as the next guy (insert comment here) but what impressed me most on this dish was the consistency throughout. The breading, the firmness, just everything was correct and balanced from one end to the other.
The meat wasn't dry and, as you can see, the gravy stopped politely shy of smothering (which I prefer). And, again, the sheer volume here is worthy of a reckoning.
While the coating was good and the fry-job (my new word!) was good enough the coating also didn't seem to have much to it beyond being just a coating. There was some flavoring involved but nothing that made it dance in your mouth. The combination of good meat and good gravy more than made up for this fact but, still, that's the one item keeping this one from moving to the top of my list.
It is, though, a fantastic deal for $10 - I even had to split it up and eat the remainder a day or two later. And two CFS's for $10 is a pretty sweet deal in anyone's book.
The meat wasn't dry and, as you can see, the gravy stopped politely shy of smothering (which I prefer). And, again, the sheer volume here is worthy of a reckoning.
While the coating was good and the fry-job (my new word!) was good enough the coating also didn't seem to have much to it beyond being just a coating. There was some flavoring involved but nothing that made it dance in your mouth. The combination of good meat and good gravy more than made up for this fact but, still, that's the one item keeping this one from moving to the top of my list.
It is, though, a fantastic deal for $10 - I even had to split it up and eat the remainder a day or two later. And two CFS's for $10 is a pretty sweet deal in anyone's book.
Introductions Are In Order
I've been attempting to trace my arc on this quest for finding the best possible chicken fried steak (CFS from here on out, btw) in Portland or, indeed, the country. I can't really recall the first time I had this or where or any of those circumstances. That could be because I'm getting older but, maybe, it's because I feel like this has always been part of me now. Like John Wayne in The Searchers I just can't give up this quest, no matter where it takes me or how long; but, just like his famous character of Ethan, am I prepared to face that conclusion once I've found it?
There's a thorough episode of "Good Eats" that details the origins and history of this dish. There's also a brief history here, too. The point is, I think for me anyway, that it's a staple, now proudly American and unashamed of it.
Many variations abound, some closer to its orgins from weiner schnitzel while others revel in the deep-fried knowledge our country holds dear. I prefer the latter but welcome all types here in my quest. My criteria hopefully allow for an open pursuit that can take all comers:
- Meat must be no more than 1/2" thick altho' 1/3" or 1/4" is perferable
- Meat must NOT be dried out
- Coating must be consistent; whether it's lightly dredged or quite literally battered it's gotta cover the whole steak and stay that way
- Gravy covering. This is a must, without question.
The rest of the nuances for defining perfection here come down to the flavoring - the spices in the coating, what's used during dredging, the type, consistency, and flavor of the gravy. Nothing else really impacts the dish after these so I'll try to keep my quest within those bounds.
So off I go, attempting to chronicle (or re-chronicle, for this quest has been on-going for quite a while) finding the best CFS known to man.
I'd also like to invite anyone else who wants to share their own CFS stories/reporting here. Just send an email to scrumpy fu at gmail dot com (scrunch that together for propuh addressin').
There's a thorough episode of "Good Eats" that details the origins and history of this dish. There's also a brief history here, too. The point is, I think for me anyway, that it's a staple, now proudly American and unashamed of it.
Many variations abound, some closer to its orgins from weiner schnitzel while others revel in the deep-fried knowledge our country holds dear. I prefer the latter but welcome all types here in my quest. My criteria hopefully allow for an open pursuit that can take all comers:
- Meat must be no more than 1/2" thick altho' 1/3" or 1/4" is perferable
- Meat must NOT be dried out
- Coating must be consistent; whether it's lightly dredged or quite literally battered it's gotta cover the whole steak and stay that way
- Gravy covering. This is a must, without question.
The rest of the nuances for defining perfection here come down to the flavoring - the spices in the coating, what's used during dredging, the type, consistency, and flavor of the gravy. Nothing else really impacts the dish after these so I'll try to keep my quest within those bounds.
So off I go, attempting to chronicle (or re-chronicle, for this quest has been on-going for quite a while) finding the best CFS known to man.
I'd also like to invite anyone else who wants to share their own CFS stories/reporting here. Just send an email to scrumpy fu at gmail dot com (scrunch that together for propuh addressin').
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